melons at my doorstep and cat fights at midnight. it's good to be in Turkey
After three planes, fourteen transit hours, one killer migraine, and two wired kids, we made it to Turkey yesterday for our annual trip to visit my husband's family. Even though its been a year since our last visit, I feel like I've never left. And that's a good thing. As we survived our first full day today feeling refreshed from the pool and my mother-in-law's home cooking, I can't help but take in all these familiar (and quirky) sights and sounds that make Turkey feel like my home away from home. Of course, some things have changed but for the most part, the familiar is omnipresent.
Breakfast: Probably my favorite meal of the day (when I don't have to cook or prepare it, that is). I really love the Turkish breakfast and today did not disappoint. I think what makes this meal so appealing (to me at least) are all the options (tomatoes, cukes, cheeses, olives, fruit, and homemade preserves, to name a few) served on small plates. I'm a gal who likes to linger at the table and sample many options. Oh, and of course we can't forget our friend simit. My husband's dad took the Vespa into town to grab fresh simits and boyoz (flaky pastries). More on simitobsession later.
Ok, enough food for now. We've got weeks of eating to satiate the palate and talk food.
Bugs: Turkey has crazy bugs. The bees are at least five times bigger than the biggest bumble bees I've seen back home. And yes, I'm still terrified of all things that go buzz. The "helicopter bugs" (dragonflies) are so big they could take on a few gallons of diesel and board a pilot. The crickets and cicadas play their symphonies all day and night, so who needs music.
The melon man: During my first time in Turkey about twelve years ago we stayed at my in-law's house in a small village outside of Cesme. One afternoon while relaxing on the patio, an old rickety tractor crawled by loaded with kavuns (melons). The driver yelled out something (ah, my Turkish was not happening at that time -- and is still not). This was my first encounter with the "kavuncu" (better known as the melon man). Who couldn't resist freshly harvested kavuns for the taking and delivered right to your doorstep. Apparently, this guy is popular because he made a showing late afternoon today.
Street noises: I live in a quiet suburb outside of Boston. At night the only sounds you may hear are, well, nothing really. Not so much in Turkey. Here we stay on a street very close to a main road that leads to the center of Cesme, a popular summer resort town. I became sensitive to the "nighttime sounds" since we starting bringing our kids here about five years ago. While I'm ok with putting them to bed later (when in Rome), I just could not get past the sounds that go on outside the wall of the house after dark -- until now. Maybe they're just better sleepers, or I am getting older and don't obsess anymore about getting the kids to sleep. So what goes on in the night you ask? Cat fights seem to dominate the evenings. The poor street cats are probably clawing for food, or maybe just a place of their own to catch a few zzz's. We have the luxury of living across from a playground with a basketball court. Don't be surprised to hear a full on game going on at midnight with a bunch of pre-teens. And because we leave all the windows open, their conversations flow inside like they are right next to you. We also live near a mosque. The adhan, or prayer call, is called out from the mosque five times a day at certain times. The last time is always bedtime. I actually like the soothing drone of the prayer call and over the years got my kids used to the "cami song" while we read books before bed. And last but not least, the circumcision parade. An old tradition to mark the passing of boy to manhood is to circumcise a boy a few years after birth (ouch) and throw a big party. That party, in which family, friends, neighbors, long lost uncles, and random strangers suddenly appear to celebrate until early morning, includes a little street procession with music, horns and a whole lotta manhood.
So what's new? Nothing other than these nifty toilet handles. Apparently, these are more commonly known as dual flush toilets and clearly, I'm totally ignorant when it comes to toilet technology. These have two buttons, big and small. I'm sure you can figure out the rest. And yes, I know what you are thinking, there is a bidet.
Breakfast: Probably my favorite meal of the day (when I don't have to cook or prepare it, that is). I really love the Turkish breakfast and today did not disappoint. I think what makes this meal so appealing (to me at least) are all the options (tomatoes, cukes, cheeses, olives, fruit, and homemade preserves, to name a few) served on small plates. I'm a gal who likes to linger at the table and sample many options. Oh, and of course we can't forget our friend simit. My husband's dad took the Vespa into town to grab fresh simits and boyoz (flaky pastries). More on simit
 |
| In Cesme and Izmir, these bad boys are called "gevrek." Got to support the locals. |
Ok, enough food for now. We've got weeks of eating to satiate the palate and talk food.
Bugs: Turkey has crazy bugs. The bees are at least five times bigger than the biggest bumble bees I've seen back home. And yes, I'm still terrified of all things that go buzz. The "helicopter bugs" (dragonflies) are so big they could take on a few gallons of diesel and board a pilot. The crickets and cicadas play their symphonies all day and night, so who needs music.
The melon man: During my first time in Turkey about twelve years ago we stayed at my in-law's house in a small village outside of Cesme. One afternoon while relaxing on the patio, an old rickety tractor crawled by loaded with kavuns (melons). The driver yelled out something (ah, my Turkish was not happening at that time -- and is still not). This was my first encounter with the "kavuncu" (better known as the melon man). Who couldn't resist freshly harvested kavuns for the taking and delivered right to your doorstep. Apparently, this guy is popular because he made a showing late afternoon today.
Street noises: I live in a quiet suburb outside of Boston. At night the only sounds you may hear are, well, nothing really. Not so much in Turkey. Here we stay on a street very close to a main road that leads to the center of Cesme, a popular summer resort town. I became sensitive to the "nighttime sounds" since we starting bringing our kids here about five years ago. While I'm ok with putting them to bed later (when in Rome), I just could not get past the sounds that go on outside the wall of the house after dark -- until now. Maybe they're just better sleepers, or I am getting older and don't obsess anymore about getting the kids to sleep. So what goes on in the night you ask? Cat fights seem to dominate the evenings. The poor street cats are probably clawing for food, or maybe just a place of their own to catch a few zzz's. We have the luxury of living across from a playground with a basketball court. Don't be surprised to hear a full on game going on at midnight with a bunch of pre-teens. And because we leave all the windows open, their conversations flow inside like they are right next to you. We also live near a mosque. The adhan, or prayer call, is called out from the mosque five times a day at certain times. The last time is always bedtime. I actually like the soothing drone of the prayer call and over the years got my kids used to the "cami song" while we read books before bed. And last but not least, the circumcision parade. An old tradition to mark the passing of boy to manhood is to circumcise a boy a few years after birth (ouch) and throw a big party. That party, in which family, friends, neighbors, long lost uncles, and random strangers suddenly appear to celebrate until early morning, includes a little street procession with music, horns and a whole lotta manhood.
So what's new? Nothing other than these nifty toilet handles. Apparently, these are more commonly known as dual flush toilets and clearly, I'm totally ignorant when it comes to toilet technology. These have two buttons, big and small. I'm sure you can figure out the rest. And yes, I know what you are thinking, there is a bidet.
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